As Sabrina prepped the model, I looked over some tearsheets to decide what kind of lighting I wanted to try. I opted for a blown out white background and wanted two lights side-by-side to create a fun catch light. But for some reason, the first look did not come together. I wanted strong beauty, but the images looked too commercial and blah. Jaysen suggested tossing up a beauty dish and lighting it like this image here. I liked the dramatic tones and directed the model, Haley, to tilt her head in exaggerated poses to show off her beautiful bone structure.

Even though I had traveled to Austin hoping for a location shoot, and even after my first lighting attempt failed, I held out hope that I could salvage my shoot. I owe a huge thanks to Jaysen for allowing us to use his immaculate studio and for suggesting lighting and retouching fixes. It goes to show that sometimes Plan B can work as magically as Plan A.

Photographer: Amy Dunn
Photo assistants: Jaysen Turner, Jon Slevec
Makeup artist: Sabrina
Model: Haley

Jaysen Turner’s Studio
Austin, TX 2010

Gear: Canon 5D Mark II
Canon EF 70-200mm f/4.0 L USM
Lighting: AB 800 Beauty Dish + grid

© Amy Dunn
All rights reserved

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Photographer: Amy Dunn
Photo assistant: Jon S.
Makeup artist: Erin McCarthy
Model: Fania

Gear: Canon 5D Mark II
Canon EF 100mm f/2.8 Macro USM
Hensel Studio Lights

Make Up For Ever
New York City, 2009

© Amy Dunn
All rights reserved

See more images like these in my Macro section.

Photographer: Amy Dunn
Makeup artist: Erin McCarthy

Gear: Canon 5D Mark II
Canon EF 100mm f/2.8 Macro USM
Hensel Studio Lights

Make Up For Ever
New York City, 2009

© Amy Dunn
All rights reserved

Erin sent me the files from our shoot, and I suddenly felt nostalgic. Over the last two months, I traveled to Europe and spent a good portion of time in Houston and Austin, TX. Many shoots I organized in the listed cities fell apart for some strange reason, and while Texas boasts some serious beauty and talent, the energy is way too laid back here. I would love for someone to prove me wrong.

I originally intended to crash the Photo Plus Expo in NY; however, I must attend a wedding in Texas this weekend and would not miss it for anything. BUT, I found a ridiculously amazing deal at Jet Blue today and will visit New York City next week! My mind keeps racing over the possibilities of shooting there, and I want to explore some of the ideas I intended to test but could not due to time constraints. I definitely want to shoot with Erin because we always get such amazing beauty work, and I will see if I can get the infamous Mr. Stephen Eastwood to be my “reflector bitch” again. He really does fill in a good shadow, doesn’t he?

Photographer: Amy Dunn
Lighting consultant: Stephen Eastwood
Makeup artist: Erin McCarthy
Model: Anka

Make Up For Ever Studios
New York, NY 2009

Gear: Canon 5D Mark II
Canon EF 70-200mm f/4.0 L USM
Hensel Flash Unit and Small Softbox
Reflector for Fill

© Amy Dunn
All rights reserved

Living in New York City always spoiled me in the sense that I could assemble a team (model, makeup artist, etc.) within 24 hours. In Houston, not so much. When Orit responded to one of my castings, I noticed the beautiful shape of her eyes and eyebrows–not to mention her lovely eyelashes–and booked her to amp up my macro beauty section. I luckily know one brilliantly talented makeup artist in Houston, Charissa Keo, and I knew we would get some dynamic, bold, colorful images.

The great thing about my shooting space in Texas is just that: I have SPACE. Because of that luxury, I tried different lighting for these two shots. In the first, I placed a DynaLite with an attached reflector camera-left to bring out the warm colors in Charissa’s palette. In the second shot with the cooler tones, I placed an Alien Bee 1600 Flash Unit with a snoot attached to focus the light on Orit’s spectacular eye makeup. For my previous macro makeup work, I used Hensels or a continuous spotlight at the Make Up For Ever studio. The DynaLite and Alien Bees produced nice lighting, and I will start playing with fun catch lights in my future macro work. I want to explore more macro makeup and will definitely look out for talented makeup artists across the globe to capture beauty up close.

Photographer: Amy Dunn
Makeup artist: Charissa Keo
Model: Orit

Gear: Canon 5D Mark II
Canon EF 100mm f/2.8 Macro USM

Houston, TX 2009
© Amy Dunn
All rights reserved

Stephen and I set up a small softbox camera-right and added a gridded kicker light in case I pulled back. Erin worked her magic on Anka’s delicate features, and we got a nice series of beauty shots today. My lens did a lot of hunting in a low-light setting, and the focus did not always lock properly. I wish I brought a different lens, maybe the 100 mm Macro or 180 mm Macro if my arms could keep it up and steady. I really like the 70-200 mm f/4.0, but if you can afford Image Stabilization, I say make that splurge.

I have one outtake to show my blog readers, but please forgive the ruddiness of the shot. I will have the whole series ready and retouched in a few weeks, and I promise they look ten times better! Thanks for checking in, and I look forward to seeing you at the next blog post.

Photographer: Amy Dunn
Lighting consultant: Stephen Eastwood
Makeup artist: Erin McCarthy
Model: Anka

Gear: Canon 5D Mark II
Canon EF 70-200mm f/4.0 L USM
Hensel Studio Lights

New York City, 2009
© Amy Dunn
All rights reserved

1. Access
2. Bad weather

I do not mind the rain, but models generally do not like to shoot when sheets of rain soak them to the core. I primarily shoot people, so I needed some willing participants to go outside with me. As the weather cleared up, I overbooked myself and managed three photo shoots this weekend.

I did not have any concepts in mind other than the need to shoot with natural light only. After a successful commercial shoot with Marketa Belonoha on Saturday (can’t wait to share those), I tried my hand with natural lighting in fashion photography. Here, I simply diffused some sunlight and added a little pop into the eyes with a reflector. I then decided to go with muted tones in post as I have seen this trend in recent fashion photography.

The results surprised me, and even though I lacked some confidence this weekend, I am glad I went out there to take pictures. My best advice to you if you suffer from photographer’s block: just keep shooting!

New photos added to my fashion portfolio.

Photographer: Amy Dunn
Photo assistant: Jon S.
Makeup artist: Diana Manzanares
Hair stylist: Alison Smith
Clothing stylist: Dagmara Dziedzic
Model: Megan

Gear: Canon 5D Mark II, Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8L USM
New York City, 2009

Thank you, Keltie, for the heads up!

I learned how to read and write Mandarin when I studied in college, and I think the characters I wrote on my Wacom tablet say, “Ha Ha Ha.” Who knows with me, though; I used to (in)advertently write curse words on my Chinese homework, much to the amusement—or chagrin—of my teachers.

By the way, do you realize how hard it is to laugh on command? I had an audience consisting of the photographer, her assistant, the makeup artist, hair stylist, production team, other models, and the client. Luckily, I have years of experience laughing at my own jokes.

I learned how to laugh on command when I modeled the cover of a Houston publication called Papercity, photographed by Larry Fagala. At a restaurant, I sat at a table with other models (and real patrons!) and had to create mood/energy for the shot. I began to laugh, and pretty soon, the whole table laughed at me laughing—at nothing. It all starts with a smile.

I almost bought a copy of this publication, but the magazine cost $10! I have magazine subscriptions to at least a dozen publications, so I generally only pay a dollar or two for each magazine. Hmm…I think I have this photo somewhere online that I can download for free. hahaha If you have an extra $10 lying around, pick up your copy of New Beauty at your nearest Barnes & Noble!

I initially wanted a cartoon-like illustrated background, but I settled on this cross-processed image. None of my self-portraits have ever turned out the way I envisioned, completely opposite from when I photograph models. The process is therefore invigorating and sometimes frustrating—but oftentimes rewarding. For every self-portrait, you will remember that moment in time forever.

After hair and makeup, I set up one AB 1600 at 1/6 power and used a silver umbrella for a little contrast. I placed the light right next to the camera, a Canon 5D Mark II, placed on my new and sturdy Manfrotto tripod. I had a Focus Gray seamless background roll behind me, and I sat on my piano bench. I wanted a tiny bit of distortion to emphasize the eyes, so I used my Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8L USM at 70 mm. I do not own a cable release or a remote (on my wish list!), but I got a pretty good lock on my eyes within a few minutes.

I am terribly impatient and will only allow myself approximately 25 frames before I say, “Enough!” All of my self-portraits are the product of what I can accomplish in 20-minutes of shooting time. I slapped the CF card into the computer and picked out this image right away. Because of my fitness goals, I have been drinking so much water, I have very clear skin and did not need to retouch much other than a few stray hairs.

The chunk of the preparation and shooting time, therefore, went to hair and makeup as well as setting up the lighting and nailing the focal points. Here is a mini-makeup tutorial if anyone is interested in this particular look. I have suggested some products that would benefit a photographer’s kit as well:

Hair & Makeup:

1. Prep the skin with Kiehl’s Ultra Facial Moisturizer SPF 15.

2. Use a wedge sponge and apply Make Up For Ever Face and Body foundation all over the face and neck. You can also blend with a foundation brush; Posh makes a nice fat one.

3. Take a concealer brush and apply Make Up For Ever Lift Concealer under eyes and around the nose. Also, cover up any red spots or outstanding blemishes.

4. Sweep an ivory-colored eyeshadow across the lids. Here, I used the lightest color from the Sonia Kashuk “Smoke in Your Eyes” eye shadow quad. I used the smaller end of an Essence of Beauty brush (labeled Blush and Powder) to apply this color.

5. Then, use Trish McEvoy’s crease brush to apply a warm chestnut brown color in the crease. MAC has a good one called “Symmetry.”

6. With an angled brush, fill in the eyebrows with the same light brown color.

7. Draw a line over the top eyelid with black liquid eyeliner. Here, I used Wet & Wild H2O proof, but it clumped my lashes together.

8. Take a white eyeliner and rim the inner eye. I had an el-cheapo product, so I had to use a small amount of Make Up For Ever flash color in white to do the job.

9. Using the same angle brush from the eyebrows, slide the brush across a dark eyeshadow and line your eyes right beneath the white rim. I used the darkest color from the Maybelline Metallique collection for a little bit of pop.

10. Take a small brush or Q-tip and apply a white, shimmery powder in the inner corners of your eyes. Dex New York has an intensely beautiful pigment called “The Cloisters Pearl.” A little dab goes a long way.

11. To finish the eyes, adhere false top and bottom eyelashes with a thin layer of eyelash glue. Curl the top lashes with a Shu Uemura lash curler and apply a few layers of mascara across the top and bottom lashes. Maybelline makes the famous Great Lash mascara, and it works perfectly.

12. Trish McEvoy makes the best brushes, but I accidentally got eyelash glue all over my blush brush. Use a powder brush—here, a combination of a Sonia Kashuk and Philosophy—to apply and blend Nars “Orgasm” across the cheeks and temples.

13. For those who love MAC’s “Spice” lip liner, you will love Wet & Wild’s “Willow.” Line the lips and gently fill in color.

14. L’Oreal has a new product out now called Infallible Lip Duo Compact. The base coat feels extra creamy and lovely, and the color, Azalea, is beautiful—for the first two minutes. It crumbles on the lips and has to be exfoliated with a toothbrush.

15. Dust powder over the face last. Try Dex New York Mineral Pressed Foundation using a Make Up For Ever kabuki brush.

After washing and drying my hair, I used a Conair flat iron and made my hair pin-straight. Then I applied Kiehl’s silk groom for that extra-polished look.

I never look like this in person.

I used a Canon 100 mm lens on my 5D and placed two Hensels parallel to one another for even lighting. The lens captured such amazing detail, I had to retouch the pupil (the black part of the eye) because I could see my own reflection. One could see my fingers holding the camera! LOL  I don’t think Catherine could see me, though–I completely blinded her with the Hensels.  

My biggest challenge shooting this image: glitter. That stuff is beautiful, but I could not do anything to make it sparkle in photos. I used strobes, so maybe continuous light would have created that beautiful bling. Either way, I could have shot this with on-camera flash; the makeup artistry is gorgenius on its own. Hope you enjoy the photo, and I also hope you’re wearing green today. I’m a pincher!