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(Kick-ass lighting psd from Kevin Kertz)

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First, I want to thank Dex Studios for this amazing studio space. I teamed up with a very talented group of artists and stylists and knew I had to do a good job with lighting and direction. Since I had a generous shooting space with super-high ceilings, I decided to go high and wide with my lights.

In this photo with Anya, I placed an Alien Bee 1600 Flash Unit on a boom with a 30° grid and barn doors to control the spread on the spotlight behind Anya’s head. Then, I used a strip box to camera-right to provide the main light. Professional models make my job so much easier, and Anya killed it with her posing. After every click of the shutter, she subtly varied her pose going from fierce to even more fierce.

Doesn’t this lighting kinda remind you of Beyoncé’s “Single Ladies” video? Speaking of, I have to go cut a rug.
Woah-oh-oh, oh, oh, oh…

Photographer: Amy Dunn
Photo assistant: Jon S.
Makeup artist: Diana Manzanares
Hair stylist: Scott Wasserman
Clothing stylist: Ty Fajemisin
Model: Anya

Gear: Canon 5D
Canon EF 70-200mm f/4.0 L USM
Alien Bees 1600 Flash Units

Dex Studios
New York, NY 2009
© Amy Dunn
All rights reserved

I initially wanted a cartoon-like illustrated background, but I settled on this cross-processed image. None of my self-portraits have ever turned out the way I envisioned, completely opposite from when I photograph models. The process is therefore invigorating and sometimes frustrating—but oftentimes rewarding. For every self-portrait, you will remember that moment in time forever.

After hair and makeup, I set up one AB 1600 at 1/6 power and used a silver umbrella for a little contrast. I placed the light right next to the camera, a Canon 5D Mark II, placed on my new and sturdy Manfrotto tripod. I had a Focus Gray seamless background roll behind me, and I sat on my piano bench. I wanted a tiny bit of distortion to emphasize the eyes, so I used my Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8L USM at 70 mm. I do not own a cable release or a remote (on my wish list!), but I got a pretty good lock on my eyes within a few minutes.

I am terribly impatient and will only allow myself approximately 25 frames before I say, “Enough!” All of my self-portraits are the product of what I can accomplish in 20-minutes of shooting time. I slapped the CF card into the computer and picked out this image right away. Because of my fitness goals, I have been drinking so much water, I have very clear skin and did not need to retouch much other than a few stray hairs.

The chunk of the preparation and shooting time, therefore, went to hair and makeup as well as setting up the lighting and nailing the focal points. Here is a mini-makeup tutorial if anyone is interested in this particular look. I have suggested some products that would benefit a photographer’s kit as well:

Hair & Makeup:

1. Prep the skin with Kiehl’s Ultra Facial Moisturizer SPF 15.

2. Use a wedge sponge and apply Make Up For Ever Face and Body foundation all over the face and neck. You can also blend with a foundation brush; Posh makes a nice fat one.

3. Take a concealer brush and apply Make Up For Ever Lift Concealer under eyes and around the nose. Also, cover up any red spots or outstanding blemishes.

4. Sweep an ivory-colored eyeshadow across the lids. Here, I used the lightest color from the Sonia Kashuk “Smoke in Your Eyes” eye shadow quad. I used the smaller end of an Essence of Beauty brush (labeled Blush and Powder) to apply this color.

5. Then, use Trish McEvoy’s crease brush to apply a warm chestnut brown color in the crease. MAC has a good one called “Symmetry.”

6. With an angled brush, fill in the eyebrows with the same light brown color.

7. Draw a line over the top eyelid with black liquid eyeliner. Here, I used Wet & Wild H2O proof, but it clumped my lashes together.

8. Take a white eyeliner and rim the inner eye. I had an el-cheapo product, so I had to use a small amount of Make Up For Ever flash color in white to do the job.

9. Using the same angle brush from the eyebrows, slide the brush across a dark eyeshadow and line your eyes right beneath the white rim. I used the darkest color from the Maybelline Metallique collection for a little bit of pop.

10. Take a small brush or Q-tip and apply a white, shimmery powder in the inner corners of your eyes. Dex New York has an intensely beautiful pigment called “The Cloisters Pearl.” A little dab goes a long way.

11. To finish the eyes, adhere false top and bottom eyelashes with a thin layer of eyelash glue. Curl the top lashes with a Shu Uemura lash curler and apply a few layers of mascara across the top and bottom lashes. Maybelline makes the famous Great Lash mascara, and it works perfectly.

12. Trish McEvoy makes the best brushes, but I accidentally got eyelash glue all over my blush brush. Use a powder brush—here, a combination of a Sonia Kashuk and Philosophy—to apply and blend Nars “Orgasm” across the cheeks and temples.

13. For those who love MAC’s “Spice” lip liner, you will love Wet & Wild’s “Willow.” Line the lips and gently fill in color.

14. L’Oreal has a new product out now called Infallible Lip Duo Compact. The base coat feels extra creamy and lovely, and the color, Azalea, is beautiful—for the first two minutes. It crumbles on the lips and has to be exfoliated with a toothbrush.

15. Dust powder over the face last. Try Dex New York Mineral Pressed Foundation using a Make Up For Ever kabuki brush.

After washing and drying my hair, I used a Conair flat iron and made my hair pin-straight. Then I applied Kiehl’s silk groom for that extra-polished look.

I never look like this in person.